DROP TO TROT LEAD CHANGES
by Patrick Wyse, with Sue Muir. Photographs by Doreen Wyse

Preface
This technique is an all-purpose maneuver that is ideal as a basic warm up exercise for any horse. It is not designed for any specific show ring application, nor does it cause any behavior problems that might have to be changed if you should wish to specialize your horse.
It is an excellent exercise for the rider as well. The act of turning the horse at a gallop teaches the rider to accept the feel of the horse as it adjusts its balance to negotiate circles. Learning this dramatically enhances the rider’s balance, while the horse discovers that he must give his head at the gallop and not drop his shoulder on a curve. The drop to trot lead change is one of the most useful exercises a rider can incorporate into his training program.

During the course of riding and training a horse, a necessary step is the changing from one lead to the other. There are a number of ways this can be done, including natural and collected flying lead changes. But long before a horse is ready for flying changes, he can be started on the most basic and least stressful method, the drop to trot lead change. This maneuver is much more than just pulling the horse down to a trot and loping in the opposite lead, like the simple changes seen in shows. It is an exercise that is useful for both suppling and relaxing the horse, while improving responsiveness to the rider. It is a great tool for building a foundation for any horse, whether he’s destined for English or western, competitive events or pleasure and trail riding.

One of the first and simplest elements of the Basic Handle*, the drop to trot lead change combines turning for control with a natural depart to the correct lead. Although every action a rider takes on a horse’s back creates some stress, the components of the drop to trot lead change are easy for the horse to understand, and keep pressure on the horse to an absolute minimum. It is a highly effective relaxation exercise for tense or nervous horses. Once a horse is familiar with the drop to trot lead change and a related exercise, circling to a walk**, he will automatically associate these maneuvers with the concept "relax, everything is OK". It’s amazing to see how much a horse will settle down just because of this elementary exercise!

The drop to trot lead change is simple enough that it can be used on a young horse the very first time he is ever cantered or loped. It continues to be beneficial as a warm up and relaxation exercise throughout the horse’s useful life. If your horse fights his head when you want to reduce his gait, this technique will remove the stress, discomfort, and fight, replacing it with a soft and willing response. Executed correctly, the drop to trot lead change keeps the horse limber and improves flexibility each time it is performed. In addition, it is a useful tool for correcting the one leaded horse.


Equipment Needed
The recommended equipment for teaching the drop to trot lead change, and all foundation training exercises is a non-leverage snaffle bit, a cavesson or dropped noseband, and a running martingale. The martingale should be adjusted with ring about one inch from the horse’s throatlatch while he’s standing in a natural position. Any saddle that is comfortable for both the horse and rider is acceptable. (Rein stops of some type are a MUST when using the running martingale, to prevent the rein attachment from getting stuck on the martingale ring. If the rein gets hung up, the horse may panic and create a dangerous situation.)

The snaffle is recommended because it is the mildest bit and it allows more lateral turning ability than any other bit. The noseband’s purpose is to discourage the horse from developing a habit of evading the bit by opening his mouth. A martingale is suggested to prevent the horse’s head from rising to an unnatural level in an attempt to evade the bit. Be sure your martingale is not adjusted too short or it will compromise the horse’s ability to turn and balance properly. As the horse becomes more trained, he can eventually do this exercise in a leverage bit if the rider desires. The accompanying photos show the recommended training equipment with the correct adjustment.

As mentioned earlier, the drop to trot lead change is comprised of two parts, turning for control, and the natural depart to the correct lead. Now we’ll define each and teach you how to accomplish this important training maneuver. Throughout the article we’ll use the term ‘gallop’ as a generic name for the canter or lope.


Turning For Control
Anyone who has ridden many horses has undoubtedly discovered that horrible feeling when a pull on the reins to slow down gets no response at all – or worse yet, the horse speeds up! That happens because the horse has not yet learned to respond to bit pressure by rating his speed. Instead, the horse is simply following his natural instinct to resist pressure. If he speeds up it is either because he is panicking, or because he has actually been taught to run faster in response to a pull on the bit.

Horses must be educated to behave in ways other than what their instinct dictates, and these behaviors need to be taught in very small steps. Even before learning "whoa", the first and most logical lesson is to accept turning for control. Why? - Because it is much more difficult for a horse to defy bit pressure from one rein than from two. If you can flex your horse’s head around to the side, he’ll find it very challenging (though not impossible) to achieve undesirable behaviors like running off, bucking or rearing. In addition, it is easier and more inviting for a horse to lean against a straight back pull on both reins than a single lateral rein pressure.

The Drop-To-Trot Lead Change: The horse is galloped along the rail on the right lead. The rider begins to turn the horse in a large circle, using a low, wide hand position.		Spiraling down to a smaller circle makes it physically difficult for the horse to remain in the gallop. Note that the rider does not pull back on the reins, but focuses on the turn instead.
In the trot, the rider continues to focus on the turn, using the inside leg as needed to widen the circle and prevent a dropped shoulder. Use of the leg also keeps the horse in a good forward trot. It may take only a partial circle or many circles to relax the horse into a forward, balanced trot.		The rider begins to aim the horse toward the fence in preparation for the left-lead depart.
Using the fence as a guide, the rider gently directs the horse's head to the left. At the same time, leg pressure and a cluck will move him into the left lead. Placement of the rider's weight to the outside makes the desired lead physically easy for the horse, and gives him a strong, natural reason to take the left lead.		The drop-to-trot lead change is complete and the horse is now galloping in the new lead. Improved flexibility and relaxation are just a few benefits of this simple exercise.

Lateral Flexion
Turning the horse’s head, also termed lateral flexion, at a standstill is relatively easy, but with speed and each progressive gait the difficulty level for both horse and rider increases. The goal is to teach the horse to yield to soft lateral bit pressure and willingly follow his head at all gaits. We begin this on the ground (see side panel). Once the horse understands lateral flexion from the ground, he’s ready to learn it while mounted. Start by gently tugging the horse’s head around toward the rider’s knee. When the horse gives, throw him a little slack to reward him before asking for more. This training is progressed over time until the horse yields his head willingly to either side at the walk, trot and gallop. As the rider, you’ll need to remember several important things:

1. Keep your direct reining hand low and wide – near your knee is ideal. (see photo)
2. Early in training, don’t be concerned if the horse’s hindquarters move toward the outside or if he turns too sharply. The priority in early training is to get the head to turn.
3. As training progresses, if the horse leans in or turns too sharply, use a forward placed inside leg or spur to widen the turn and prevent his shoulder from dropping. You may also need to add some occasional outside rein to aid in balance.
4. ALWAYS START SOFTER THAN YOU THINK THE HORSE CAN FEEL when using bridle or leg pressure, and gradually increase the pressure until you get a reaction. The difference between training and forcing is that the trained horse responds when asked lightly, while the forced horse always requires brute strength to accomplish the goal. You train the horse by starting soft.

Putting It Together
Now, if you’ve got your horse well started on lateral flexion, he’s ready for a drop to trot lead change. We’ll illustrate the maneuver beginning on the right lead and changing to the left lead. While loping on the right lead, begin flexing the horse’s head to the right. Next, allow him to turn into a large right circle, gradually spiraling the circle down in size. DON’T PULL BACK ON THE REINS TO SLOW HIM DOWN. As the circle size decreases, your horse will find it physically difficult to maintain a gallop, and will eventually break to the trot on his own. Don’t worry if it takes several circles, or even eight or ten or more to get the horse to trot. Wait until it’s his idea – that eliminates the pressure on the horse. Instead of feeling that he’s being forced to slow down, the horse will view the spiral as an opportunity to relax, and reduce his gait.
If your horse turns too suddenly or leans in to drop a shoulder, use inside leg or spur and/or outside rein to help rebalance him.
After the horse breaks gait, continue circling and flexing. Do not allow the horse to slow to a walk. Tap him with an inside leg or spur as needed to keep him trotting and maintain the size of the circle. Continue turning in a forward moving trot until he’s balanced, relaxed, flexing willingly, and following his head without resistance. This may take half of a circle or many circles depending on the individual horse. Be sure to have plenty of patience and wait for the correct response. When he’s reacting correctly you’re ready to move on to the final component of the drop to trot lead change – the natural depart to the correct lead.

Natural Depart To The Correct Lead
If you watch horses running loose in a pasture, you’ll see that they instinctively take the inside lead whenever they want to make a turn at speed. This is true from the very first time a young foal moves into a gallop, and is the way horses naturally balance themselves. The natural depart to the correct lead utilizes the horse’s desire to be balanced in a turn to select the inside lead without having to collect him or force him into it. Our goal is to make it physically and mentally easy for the horse.

Now that your horse has dropped from the right lead to a trotting circle, we’ll prepare him to move to the left lead. Choose a location to return to the fence where you’ll have a long straight line to gallop along. Avoid places where he’ll have to negotiate a sharp corner right away, as it is too demanding for most untrained horses. Keep the horse in a forward trot at about a 90 degree angle to the fence. About ten feet before the fence, gently direct the horse’s head slightly to the left. At the same time push him forward into a gallop, using right leg and clucking to him. Keep your weight to the outside (the right side) of the horse to help him balance. Leaning in will disrupt his stability. Be careful not to pull his head hard, but instead allow the fence to create the turn while you create the forward motion. The gradual turn will naturally cause the horse to want to achieve the correct lead. Your timing is of utmost importance. You’ll need to ask the horse to gallop strongly enough that he’ll take the lead while he’s turning, not after the turn is complete.
Varying the drop to trot lead change pattern makes the horse responsive to your signals instead of a specific pattern.

It will take multiple training sessions for a horse to become familiar with the drop to trot lead change, but the improvements in the horse are well worth the effort. The mental and physical abilities gained by the horse will benefit him both in the beginning of training and for years to come.

FOOTNOTES
*The Basic Handle is a training system developed by the late Monte Foreman, a pioneer in modern riding techniques. Co-authors Foreman and Patrick Wyse collaborated on the book Monte Foreman’s Horse Training Science, which describes much of the basic handle. See Book Gallery page.

**Circling to a walk, and a variety of other exercises and maneuvers are documented in the video Practical Guide To Leads And Lead Selection, by Patrick Wyse. This video documents in detail the drop to trot lead change as well as lead selection, collection techniques, and flying lead changes. For more information on HorseWyse videos and where to find them, visit the Videos page, or phone 425-771-9273.

ABOUT THE AUTHORS:
Patrick Wyse is a trainer, teacher, and author, and has produced seven videos on horse training. Many accomplished trainers have learned from Patrick. For years Wyse studied with the late Monte Foreman, a pioneer in modern horse training techniques. Foreman stated that Wyse was his "first and best certified instructor". Today, Patrick Wyse and his wife Doreen travel around much of the United States, and sometimes abroad, teaching clinics. They reside at the HorseWyse Ranch in Townsend, Montana. During the summer, Wyse teaches intense two and three week training seminars.

Sue Muir is a long time student of Patrick Wyse, who has gone on to train and instruct professionally. After showing and training many breeds and disciplines, she has chosen to specialize in working western horses. Muir is both a National Reining Horse Association and Washington State Horsemen certified judge. Her hobby is Freestyle Reining, and she has won Freestyle at several major shows. Lynnwood, Washington is where Muir makes her home with her husband and three children.
Those with comments or questions for the authors can contact them at www.HorseWyse.com, or by mail at P.O. Box 100, Townsend, MT 59644.